New kids on the Berlin block, Vektor, capture the spirit of the city’s trendy crowd and filter it into
their collections. The models came out girl, boy, girl, boy to beat heavy techno music (what else?)
wearing outfits as uniformed as their walk. Voluminous neoprene jumpers and bomber jackets in a
strictly monochrome black and white were paired with skinny trousers and leggings for men. A
leather panel in an inverted triangle shape with the bottom cut off emphasised the broad shoulder,
slim leg look on men. For women, long, a-symmetrical wrap coats with contrast belts moved away
from the sporty look but still had a quirky edge.
All in all though, the perfect wardrobe to share with your boyfriend or girlfriend.
Irene Luft’s fetish-like evening wear collection for AW15 was titled ‘revenent’, the name for a visible
ghost. Ghostly elements included translucent black fabrics covered in lace and netted skirts that
floated around the models’ bodies. Heavy, full skirts in contrast to the delicate lace and silk, used
leather and neoprene to dramatic effect.
Accessories included opera-length leather gloves and black metallic head capes. Wet look hair
dropped over the face in thick strands.
Evening glamour for the brave.
Berlin Fashion Week ended on a high with Marine Hoermanseder’s AW15 show. From the opening
look, a postbox red plastic hobble skirt with exaggerated hips and mohair jumper which the model
waddled half way down the aisle in before twirling her arms in a balletic fashion and waddling back
again, to the standing ovation at the end, this was a true fashion marvel.
The mixture of imaginative, avant-garde designs and wearable, elegant pieces was refreshing to
see. Loose, silky culottes and blouses with open backs carried simple leather details to create
something unique. The front of a belt on trousers finished at the hip bones and trailed down to trim
the pockets and breast pockets were boxy with old fashioned leather buckle closures. Buckles
were a common theme, from the leather corsets layered over a cotton dress that buckled up at the
back to the jacket that had a buckle fastening rucksack merged into it and the latticed leather
pencil skirt with buckle detail on the waist. The leather craftsmanship was impressive.
Fur accessories, such as a large Eskimo snood and oversized coat collar added a touch of vintage
glamour. Hair and makeup was also old glamour with dainty chignons and finger waved fringes,
complementing the porcelain skin and red lipstick. A free-flowing, mac-style dress and loose
pyjama trousers hinted to the 1930s. The contrast between classic and futuristic leathers and plastics didn’t jar, they blended perfectly and displayed the true talent of one of Germany’s most exciting designers.
Accommodation partner for FAULT in Berlin: My Plus One.