FAULT Interviews… Caravan Palace in Paris

This swing-based seven piece rock it like no other. In providing a catchy and rhythm-driven back-bitten base, then blending it elegantly with reminisces of gypsy swing evocative of the late, great Django Reinhardt, these French musicians have won many fans as pioneers of the electro-swing genre. Caravan Palace are like alchemists who have mastered the formula for the undeniable, foot tappin’ impulse that hits you any time you hear the group strike up a chord, a skill that has placed many under their spell- both within their native land and abroad (the group have performed in the US as well as extensively touring Europe). With a track record like this, it seems that Caravan Palace have refined a recipe for a brilliantly debauched and unique kind of musical prowess…

We caught up with Charles Delaporte (Contrabase) and Hugo Payen (scat, synths) fresh from their performance at Secret Garden Party, UK, in our very own secret garden, deep in Paris’ 18th arrondissement. Through a playful mix of English and French, we took the collective temperature in the band’s run-up to bigger and better things…..

Text by Kat Rutherford.

Interview by Kat Rutherford and Amy Tabarly

Photography shot on location in Paris 18e by Mickael Davis

With thanks to Nick Bateson and Caravan Palace.


FAULT:
You’ve just appeared in a string of English music festivals, including Secret Garden Party and Boomtown festival. What are your impressions of the way we do things there?
Hugo:
Boomtown Festival was impossibly crazy.  The whole idea is that the festival is this apocalyptic town and everybody acts if it’s the end of the world. There were huge fiery spiders blowing flames into the sky! We just don’t see things like this is France! We were not there for long but long enough to be very impressed.

FAULT: How does this compare with playing in France?
Charles:
We have toured in France for ages. Therefore when we go on tour there it’s like a holiday camp with more whisky; we are twelve with a nice bus and a lot of excellent energy. Our French fan base is much stronger than in any other country, as they have followed us since the beginning, so our gigs are also full of this energy. It’s nice.

FAULT: As a group of seven musicians, I imagine the tour environment is pretty intense. Does your song-writing process also involve all seven of you? If yes, how do you stay democratic?
Hugo:  In fact, it’s not all seven of us who create the music at it’s base! Myself et Arnaud went to school together, and found Charles and another member when we moved to Paris. Almost all of us have studios at home. In the beginning stages of the process, we work on these things at home and send the results to each other. If we get a quick response, we know it’s good!

FAULT: So how did you find your other three musicians?
Hugo: They actually came to us via Myspace. As we have evolved our music it has become clear that other elements would have to be added to our original line-up. So we have acquired our singer, clarinettist and percussionist over the years!

FAULT: So your large group size is most useful for your live performances…?
Charles: Yes. Although it’s harder to do, we prefer to play our music live. Many electro-swing artists are djs who can work alone. What we do as musicians is rarer than you think nowadays but closer to what we enjoy.

FAULT: In this respect, you are pioneers of your genre. But who else do you keep track of on the electro-swing scene?
Charles: Of course, we love Parov Stelar, Simian as well as many smaller acts…the genre is growing much at the moment. There are a lot of artists now who are becoming more mature. It is not always a success but these people are trying.

FAULT: Your lyrics are in English despite your French roots. How does this affect the feeling and meaning of your songs?
Hugo: Swing as a genre has always been American. Even Django Reinhardt wrote in English. We think that the sound is just more natural. French as a genre doesn’t swing, it has a different rhythm to English, which doesn’t work as well for this purpose.

FAULT: What attracted you to making this type of music in the first place?
Hugo: We already played swing, in the start we were a jazz manouche band. At the same time we were producing electronic music for others. The two just naturally married, and the relationship is a success!

FAULT: So what is your strategy to get the crowd swinging at Rock-en-Seine in a few days time?
Charles: It will be the first time that we have played Rock-en-Seine… the crowd will be bigger, and so it will be a challenge to get them all moving, which we love. This is a very indie rock festival, so we must make our music stand out even more…with more energy, to create those dancing rhythms.

FAULT: After your immediate plans for the end of the festival circuit, what will you be doing next?
Charles: We are not really starting on it yet but we would love to make a third album. For now we have concerts in the UK,, France and Germany to make people dance even more!


FAULT Finds… Secret Emporium @ Secret Garden Party 2012

For a few years now, style mavens Lucy and Tess have been doing their thing to empower young and original designers struggling to get their heads above water in the sea of creative talents.

FAULT crossed this dynamic collective at Secret Garden Party 2012, another wonderful organization which has long supported the growth and the cause of the girls, who work under the guise of Secret Productions.

This year the Collective has launched an impressive pavilion known as the Secret Emporium-designed to expose curious and fashion-conscious festival goers to some of the freshest new bespoke items from around the sartorial milieu. Glasses of champagne in hand, we accompanied organizers Tess and Emma around the tent, to browse the riot of colour, feathers, and eclectically dressed vendors and get a better sense of this unique and vibrant happening.

Principal: The Secret Emporium supports young designers from around to UK, who wouldn’t necessarily have had the funding or the knowledge to showcase themselves. As part of this collective, the designers are given the space to sell their products amongst a range of similarly original talents.

Who and How? The two principal organizers of Secret Emporium and Secret productions are Tess and Lucy, two multi-faceted Londoners who dabble in numerous creative pursuits. Before Secret Productions the two had their own jewellery line and art curation enterprises respectively, but now this collective consumes yet more of their time and seems to be taking a very encouraging upwards trajectory.

Some Noteworthy Designers: Whilst the entire tent of offerings was fantastic (we wanted it all!) these particular gems caught our eyes a little longer than most…

E A Burns

This young designer has been really forthcoming in the development of her eponymous geometric jewellery label. The bright and modern designs often take the form of pendants and 3D shapes that hang from earrings and bracelets.

FAULT FAVOURITE: The irresistibly of-the-season collar clips in a variety of silvery shapes.

 Puckoo Couture

Home to an extensive and surprising selection of acidic standout pieces I can imagine would once have been championed by Mr Bowie, (and more recently a certain Mr Fielding). This label uses a range of colourful and hi-tech materials.

FAULT FAVOURITE: the jumpsuits. Once you find and squeeze into your size these things feel just like a second skin. It would be so so easy to comfortably pass three or four days inside.

FuudHoods

Bad festival hair? Exhibitionist tendencies? Look no further than FuudHoods, who produce a wide range of extrovert hats and hoods which instantly brighten up outfits. Created by hand (and toting wicked fashion shoots on the website), visit and click if you desire a quick way to inject a little slice of craziness to your festival wardrobes, and beyond…

Her Curious Nature

Taking us back into the fantasy world of princesses, the bespoke hair accessories at Her Curious Nature are artisanally crafted to revive or complete a look. For those looking for a regal piece of ornamentation to cement their statuses as queens of the festival, here would be the place to find it.

For more details on the work of Lucy and Tess and their associated designers, go to www.secretemporium.com

All text and images are the copyright of Kat Rutherford/FAULT Magazine. Image syndication fees are paid directly to the photographer, with any applicable agency fees donated directly to the Linveco Cultural Foundation

Secret Garden Party Festival: Some not-so Secret Guidelines…

Nudity, fancy food, spinning skull boatmen… just some of the delights that await you upon entrance to the magical world that is the Secret Garden Party. Not so much a secret any more, the festival – which celebrated its 10th anniversary in 2012 – has seen a huge upsurge in popularity these past few years. As regular ‘Gardeners’, we at FAULT have taken it upon ourselves to compile this short guide to a festival which, this year, saw the likes of Orbital, Little Dragon and Edward Sharpe and the Magnetic Zeros rock our proverbial socks enough to shake them free of our wellies (and traipse gleefully through fields of muddy, musical gold).

SGP celebrated its 10th anniversary in 2012 – long may it continue

Secret Garden Party is a festival like no other – despite the huge number of also-rans it seems to have spawned in recent times – insofar as the music, however stellar the artists may be, will always be secondary to the overall festival vibe: laid back and unpretentious while sporting a healthy dose of unreality. In fact, upon first sight SGP can seem as though you’ve plunged head-first into the Rabbit Hole. But relax; we’ve sacrificed ourselves at SGP’s altar of otherworldly delights to bring you these creeds on how to optimize your gardening experience…

For the geeks out there, casual mythological references abound. The Charon Zoetrope was designed by Peter Hudson and also made an appearance at the legendary Burning Man Festival last year.

There is literally no point trying to pack according to predicted weather. You will have rain, you may well have sun, there will be plenty of grey… it is even possible that snow could hit. So as groups of little boys and girls once said: Be Prepared.

Try and make the headliners at the Great Stage. At any other festival, this would be a given. Not so SGP, where frolicking through the myriad fields and undiscovered tents tends to reign supreme. Despite these temptations, the main stage should still be a must. The unique and very well done lasers cast an impressive backdrop (reflected again in the lake) around the eclectic and kooky choices of lineup.

Contradict the above (!). Don’t be surprised if one of the intimate, partially hidden stages around the camp entices you away from your pilgrimage route towards the big bands. This is not something to regret, you will probably have an amplified participatory experience…!

Guess the last letter?

Bring at least 4 packs of Berocca for the morning after…

Allow a LARGE budget for food. The Secret Garden Party selection is nothing short of Michélin worthy (indeed many of the food retailers have won festival prizes for their fare).

Apportion a large portion of this budget to Chai Tea. A hippy favourite, once you have your first cup you will be hooked, and many a festival memory (or it’s resulting hangover) can be made sweeter the next day with one of these steaming beauties in your hands.

Start your stockpiling of fancy dress now for 2013. Every look works, the more the better. There is simply no such ‘too much’.

Either some finely toned buttocks or a heart. Either way: beautiful.

– Commandeer a space, a yurt or patch of ground (as you will) and Own It. Invite people in or watch them crash in themselves. During a festival everyone is looking to escape, and from this kind of vantage point you can observe the even more hilarious pursuit of people looking for repose from their repose.

Care for your sick – tuck up that friend who went a little too far last night into their sleeping bag, kiss them sloppily and zip up their tent door. Then go and make stories to tell them once they wake up.

Be prepared to lose the people you arrived with at least twice a day. There is no real remedy for this; you’re just gonna end up with many new friends.

Always wander into new places. If a tent catches your attention, go in. If a person looks at you, kiss them. This kind of attitude is what makes SGP so liberating.

 

Get your early bird tickets by placing a deposit for SGP 2013 NOW. Or risk missing out on possibly the best UK festival since Glasto became awful – your choice! 🙂

P.S: Here’s a naked guy

FAULT Event Report: PFW London Mens Showrooms SS13

 

Interviews by Kat Rutherford, Designer Picks by Arndt Stobba and Photos by Sarah T Skinner

The swirling hype around Haute Couture this Spring Summer 2013 undoubtedly defines the fashion mood in Paris during the week of défilés and soirées. But far from the podiums of Concorde and Invalides, those searching for refreshment amongst the dominating womenswear collections were offered a glimpse of another, markedly less Parisian option.

Tucked away behind Bastille, in the 10th arrondissement of Paris, FAULT rendezvoused with the best and brightest of London’s Menswear designers at the Menswear Showrooms for SS13.
Organised by the British Fashion Council, this event imports the best feelings of London Men’s creativity and warmth to the Parisian capital for a number of days, to tap into the Parisian buyers market that remains so important today.

Featuring a wide range of the youngest and freshest young designers to break out from the British capital, the event aims to court the interest of some of the swarm of international buyers who descend into the French foray each season.

But why the need to travel to the continent to showcase effectively? Is this something that could ever change? What’s more, is the future looking rosy for London Menswear, taking account of current market conditions and changing market tastes? We asked a number of our British representatives for their insight…

FAULT: How is your Paris showroom experience going so far?
T Lipop: We are here today to really try and expand our market internationally. being a small and recently established enterprise from the UK we have a lot of ground to conquer; and Paris is integral in attracting the kind of clients who could take us to another level.

FAULT: What do you think it is about Paris that makes fashion buyers continue to flock here above all other cities?
Christopher Shannon Representative: Paris is still really important for sales just because it always has been. It’s kind of a cycle that sustains itself- people come to Paris because they know that everyone else will be there… and this keeps its market status pretty high.

Martine Rose: This is the way it has been forever; but that doesn’t mean things can’t change with new initiatives. Britain has a great history of well supporting its young designers in their conception, with everything from Vauxhall Fashion Showcase to Fashion East and New Gen…

E.Tautz

 

 

          

FAULT: So with this kind of showcase the British Fashion Council are helping you to flourish at the next stage of your development?

Shaun Samson: The amount of support I’ve been given since before I even graduated has been really humbling. The current fashion system in place in the UK is something that makes me really glad to be based there, they take care of their designers.

Martine Rose: The new London Collections for Menswear initiative is really exciting- hopefully it can change the way that buyers see our capital and we can attract them there!

FAULT: What are some of your biggest markets around the globe? Why do you think you’re popular there?

Christopher Shannon Rep: Actually, the East, places such as China and Japan, because they love the traditional British aesthetic and the cultural history that comes with that.

Baartman and Seigel: The Japanese are a key market for us, they really appreciate material quality. They are also unafraid to invest in unusual and directional fashion choices, and concept clothing! They are always welcome to come and discuss our concepts with us in more detail…

FAULT: To what extent do you design with the buyer and your current strong markets in mind?

Baartman and Seigel: Of course, our design is influenced to an extent by the people we know to already appreciate it…

Christopher Raeburn Representative: We really don’t have a very particular demographic, in fact our design ethic is more governed by practicality and quality. Luckily we find that many men appreciate these traits! We also appeal to the wider ethical conscience of our audience; little waste, all off cuts are put to use (stuffing the adorable office toy owls, for example).

E. Tautz: Our demographic sustains our design, and vice versa; we design clothes for ‘the English man living an interesting life’. So traditionally the men who wear and buy our pieces do so as they work hard to support the ways in which our customers spend their time.

 

Agi and Sam

FAULT: Isn’t it true that sometimes you can be surprised by demand from unexpected types of client? Is this why we now see traditional menswear designers branching into womens’ garments?

James Long: Yeah, it’s a great compliment when you see the potential to create a womenswear range based on appreciation for your existing collections. Some of my designs were pretty androgynous before and you’d have both sexes wearing certain pieces, but now we’ve managed to establish that the demand exists for women as well as men, I can create separate collections for them that so far have been very well received.

E. Tautz: As a consequence of the girlfriends of our existing clients constantly lusting after their shirts, we have also just launched a women’s’ shirt collection. They maintain all the quality of our menswear and bring E. Tautz further reach.

FAULT: How are your designs affected by the fact that you are based in Britain? Can you see much national influence on your brand?

William Richard Green: I love Britain and it tends to come out very strongly in different manifestations each collection. It’s very important for me as a source of inspiration; from collaborating with other well-known brands like Walsh shoes and Brady bags, to the beloved tracksuit bottoms that I redesign in luxe… you can’t get away from its influence on my brand.
This is something that I hope buyers appreciate.

Christopher Raeburn Rep: Each collection is designed with the practical element in mind; this is something that is very British both in our character and in our pursuits. We have a signature Raeburn cut of coats which reappears every season and is made for trekking, hiking, being outside and free… we see these are important aspects of British culture.

William Richard Green

…and here are a few of our top picks of the season (ch-ch-check them out…)

Lee Roach

Lee Roach found inspiration in Felix Gonzalez-Torres artwork and made his S/S 2013 collection for those who like it simple yet stylish and always with a new twist. Stepping away from unnecessary complication, each collection is an evolutionary step forward from the previous. Always forward-thinking – a true Londoner!

William Richard Green

Green likes it quintessentially British, and we’re talking about the modern, genuine Britain! He found inspiration for his S/S 2013 collection in football hooligans and the culture of East London’s Muslim community. With lots of layering, an extra portion of comfort and plenty of track bottoms, his intention was to create a collection of comfortable sportswear – luxury sportswear, so you can get away with wearing it any time!

Shaun Samson

Oversized, comfortable… a bit of sparkle, a bit of unisex. Shaun Samson’s S/S 2013 combines a number of key ingredients to success without making it tacky. The needlepunch technique, a very time consuming way of melding two different fabrics together, is his signature. Samson did a brilliant job at combining a very contemporary look with astonishinbg craftsmanship!

E Tautz

A collection made for ‘an Englishman living an interesting life’, the vision for next summer at E. Tautz was filled with inspiration from kaftans and Moroccan desert travellers. Keeping up with the 21st century, this classic sportswear tailoring house offers a vivid and colourful wardrobe for everyone who can’t wait to escape to yet another adventure.

A Parisian Photography Profile: Sarah T Skinner

 

Sarah T Skinner has something of the masterpiece about her. This petite, blue-eyed blonde has come a long way from her roots as a native of Seattle, Washington State, to our meeting spot in the 20th arrondissement of Paris.
Other than a sparkling eye she gives little away as to the unique tools she uses to create her craft. But this individual produces the kind of photography that, once seen, is difficult to forget.
Her pictures manage to blend a subtle technical mastery with a depth of truth so striking that it seems accidental. The resulting images tell developed and resonant stories; something that I quickly discover is integral to Skinner’s personal ideology and representative of one of her fundamental goals. In a characteristic and charmingly candid style, Sarah Takako Skinner sheds a little light on some of her deeper reflections in life…

 

FAULT: What keeps you going as a photographer?

Sarah: The passion to tell stories, the situations and adventures this puts me in and the satisfaction I receive when I see a photo series come together cohesively. How the power of one image can be so profound. I never get tired of the challenge and I get excited to keep pushing and creating more.

 

FAULT: Can you personally define the thing that makes photography worth it…?

Sarah: I like the challenge to show the complexity of a person. I know I’ve succeeded when I get 7 or 8 photos that are so different as to show this dynamism.

FAULT: How do you choose a subject? Everyone has multiple facets to their personalities.

Sarah: At the moment, I read about a person then I contact him/her about the possibility of a project.
I’m most intrigued by a person who lives dualities and an adventurous life; someone who makes exciting or unusual choices with uncertain or risky outcomes. These are people I not only want to befriend, but to photograph as well. 

 

You have traveled to a myriad of places. Do you think adventurers are so interesting because they reflect your own nature?
Sarah: Each photograph I take is like a self-portrait. It’s not about the other person as much as how I reflect in them. I cannot create what is not inside of me, therefore in a way – every image is a self-portrait, a reflection of the soul… that’s my take on it anyway.
I bring personalities to the surface as I can feel them.

FAULT: How about future adventures?


Sarah: The next natural step for me is film, becoming a Director is probably my long-term goal. My intrigue is, will I be able to create the kind of impact in set motion as one can create in one photograph or a series? An image is so powerful.

 

FAULT: What is the relationship between photographs and reality in your eyes?


Sarah: To me, it is a heightened sense of something previously present. Unless your photographic bias is towards pure reportage you push people beyond their own personal image towards something deeper, something they don’t usually let go. I’m projecting what I see and I help people to show it for me. This is reality emerging. I’m making my subjects go to the levels that you need to create a great image, because if they don’t then it’s a shitty photograph and people aren’t feeling it. The subject needs to feel intensely, no matter what the emotion, for an image to be good. You must awaken a persons’ raw vulnerability in a place that is beyond their normal zone of safety.

Interview by Kat Rutherford.

www.sarahtskinner.com

Spotlight: François Mauld d’Aymée

Young artist-poet François Mauld d’Aymée hails from France, but has come far from his origins to produce a distinctive and unique form of literary art which reflects a range of things which he finds beautiful about life. Currently based in London, we caught up to quiz him on his ‘Caligrammes’, art and everything else…

 

FAULT: Tell us a bit about your background. How did you find yourself inclined towards literature?

François: I’m a humble countryside farmer’s son born deep down in the abandoned heart of Champagne. I left home when sixteen, in a thirsty search for adventure which brought me to enlist for an officers course in the Army… Done with dreams of cavalry charges, chivalry and all of that, I resigned and started up a brand new life, which is where I’m at. Words and music notes have replaced swords, runs in the open and iron helmets.

The more I was losing hope in the physical world, the more I turned towards literature and other forms of art. Whatever the society turns into, the beauty and greatness of words and writings remains intact. And I love beauty and greatness.

 

FAULT: You have chosen to represent your poems in the form of caligrammes.How important do you think this style is in helping the reader to understand the poetry? What is your intention in choosing this form of writing?

François: I want to charm and attract the reader. The visual aspect is essential. One doesn’t need to read everything. From afar, to me it is like a big cloud, a big milky way of words drifting on a shaped galaxy, from which you pick stars whenever you feel like. I want the reader to build his own understanding from what he took. Unlike the boring poetry which is a dead genre (who buys 5 poetry books a year ?) it is not just lines one after the other.

If you like it just from seeing the picture, you still make me happy. I don’t ask for more. On the other hand, I’ve strived to conceive something deep, rich and elaborate. Find your way through the maze, and you see concealed treasures of romance. It offers more than poetry. It’s freedom.

 

FAULT: There is so much rich, natural imagery in your works. What does this imagery evoke for you? A special memory, or place? How has it appeared as such a strong theme?

François: I let the imagination have no boundaries, like I would leave open the meadows’ gates and leave myself to ramble there, free of any guidance. For three of the four works featured here, it led me to natural imagery as a perfect match for female facial beauty, like conquistadores would tell their stories of the New World. Like they spoke about rivers of gold, like a natural blonde hair is a true river of gold.

 

FAULT: Finally, what are your aspirations for the future? Can you see yourself pursuing the life of an artist and/or a poet?

François: Well ! Main thing for me is to get ready for conservatory auditions late this year. I’m learning lyrical singing and I want to start a serious course in London, and become an opera singer after that. Alongside that, I will gladly pursue the life of an artist poet.

 

FAULT: What is your FAULT?

François: I like going to tuning contests and tractor exhibitions.

 

See a selection of  François’ poetry in English here:

Atsuro Tayama at Paris Fashion Week

We rubbed shoulders with the impeccably dressed Japanese fashion elite for Atsuro Tayama’s show at Paris Fashion Week.

What we found seemed to be; strong ethnic British references, fur and pattern pouring out of a range of statement pieces and designs that were instantly desirable… some killer shapes amongst this collection, with a mix of just enough colour with moody shadow…

This was a progressive collection- starting off as more minimalist and unfolding slowly like a winter flower into a magnificent bouquet by the end of the spectacle.

 

Are you Devastee?

FAULT gets a showcase of the latest collection of goodies from dynamic design duo Francois Alary and Ophelie Clare at their AW 2012/13 show.

 

Held underneath Pont Alexandre III, the illicit cool of the location was relfected in the collection- producing ensemble after ensemble of trong, strange pieces which look equally suited to a bad, bad girl or a strange gothic choirchild.

Sticking to their eternal palette of black and white, with the continuation of their recurring motifs, the designers were once again able to come up with a mood that was desirable and slightly scary at the same time. Handle with care.