LC:M January ’16, DAY 1: THE FAULT AW16 DAILY EDIT

The FAULT Magazine Editors have been busy catching the shows this season at London Collection Men. We present here, our exclusive daily edit of the must-see London shows. Be sure to stay tuned to FAULT Online for exclusive backstage photography, daily updates and our daily show edit. To see the new season collections, with us, as they happen check out our official Instagram

Topman Design
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Topman Design’s AW16 offering was a sort of jumble sale, but nonetheless one worth looking at! The designers drew inspiration from Seventies glam rock and suiting, Nineties grunge and sportswear (can grunge be glam? Topman certainly thought so and somehow managed to pull it off!), and even a bit of Charles Dickens; one of standout looks was an all out homage to supreme Dickensian antihero The Artful Dodger!
This mad hatter selection was interpreted across the board stylistically, representing the diversity of the individual British menswear tribes. Topman continued on the march away from the ‘skinny’ silhouette playing with exaggerated size and proportions, and layering was key. Colours were bold, fabrics lux and patterns baroque, and outerwear was extremely strong as always. Oh and kimonos as outerwear anyone?! And I’m not quite sure if I loved, or was appalled by the tank tops over floral shirts: anyone who like myself endured an Eighties childhood will well recall this being Mothers favorite look for dressing her son in,and yes there is photographic evidence! There was double denim, LOTS of double denim, in a faded washed blue that said Seventies, but appeared on Nineties-influenced streetwear, and all was styled and finished to elude a veneer of faded glory. Louche and eclectic, the vagabond princes of Topman are how I would imagine Withnail & Marwood to appear were Withnail & I filmed today!

Words: Ian Michael Turner

 

Barbour

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On a voyage of unadulterated British-ness, this season saw Barbour set out to redefine the essence of traditional menswear design with quality and durability at it’s core. Classic Barbour styles that we have come to expect from the brand such as wax jackets and immemorial tartan are transformed into standout contemporary pieces with the introduction of technical fabrics and a sophisticated palette of oxford blue and goldenrod yellow. Seamlessly honing in on a more neoteric approach to design, AW16 is all about the finished look and sees the brand showcase two new bags from their latest collaboration with Universal Works. Whilst a lean towards modernity is evident, Barbour remain true to their DNA, nurturing traditional pieces with contemporary vigor and laboured construction.

Words: Sarah Young 

Nigel Cabourn

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Taking place at Cabourn’s London store ‘The Army Gym’, AW16 unveiled the designer’s latest endeavor into vintage military outdoor and work wear pieces. Taking inspiration from the uniforms worn by men of the ammunition factories during World War I and the post-war uniforms of railway workers, the collection elevates utilitarian staples with traditional craft. Classic parkas, authentic trench coats and vintage Sherpa jackets are met with Chuck Taylor Converse specials and striped pom-pom hats to give functional staples a fresh face whilst a military palette of army green, navy and burnt orange remains prevalent throughout. Inspired by militia sportswear, the Fred Perry x Nigel Cabourn collaboration adopts a more muted tone as casual gym pants and jersey sweats come in subdued hues of ivory, stone and oxford blue. This collection is Nigel doing what Nigel does best; simple cuts, traditional designs and a vintage aesthetic labored with deviceful craft and ingenuity.

Words: Sarah Young 

 

CMMN SWDN 

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Continuing from last seasons endeavor into retro refinement, AW16 saw CMMN SWDN deliver a collection bound with nostalgic direction. Warm and inviting, the collection serves as a ‘home from home’ straddling a late 70s/early 80s interior aesthetic; think old leather couches, velvet armchairs and wood panel walls to boot. Jackets and tops are dominated by boxy, cropped fits while trousers and jeans are defined with slim legs and super high waists. An exploration into the definition of ‘luxury fabric’ runs throughout the collection as CMMN SWDN present key pieces in both real and faux suede and leather, combining craftsmanship with a modern and playful aesthetic. This season, the design duo manipulate classic sartorial menswear, successfully constructing a new image of masculinity with tender familiarity and a rock-‘n’-roll edge.

Words: Sarah Young 

 

Joshua Kane

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Joshua Kane’s AW16 presentation, titled ‘Houndsditch’, was a suitably sharp and starry affair, with several of Kane’s celebrity friends taking to the catwalk and the F-row filled with some of the London fashion scene’s finest. Models including Dougie Poynter and The Black Eyed Peas’ Taboo showcased a sharp and dark collection, inspired by the tales of an early 20th century battle between an East End gang and Winston Churchill’s forces.

Presented in the opulent surroundings of Christ Church in Spitalfields, Kane’s collection took heavy inspiration from the infamous ‘Siege of Sidney Street’ and presented pieces directly referencing the characters involved, such as Churchill’s trademark fur-collared overcoat.

Portraying a sartorial elegance with a sinister undertone, the collection offered up a slick and sharp style, in shades of black, white, grey and oxblood. Prints were strident and bold; varying from classic houndstooth and an oversized variant, to polka dots, painted scenes and gallant tartan and checks.

Baroque prints in black and bronze and flashy gold embellishments added a rococo flair to the presentation; the prints were mixed with opulent black and oxblood velvets for a sumptuous look.

Shapes were slim cut in Kane’s inherent style; trousers were cut especially close, with the coats and blazers tailored perfectly for an incredibly sleek and sharp finish.

Accessories played a huge part in this collection too; models wore bold black fedoras with white bands, along with satin bowties and dark shades too. Bright, oversized houndstooth mittens added a touch of fun to this seriously slick collection, and we’re lusting over the matching oversized scarf thrown casually around the models.

A slick, elegant and elaborate collection with more than a hint of darkness – we’d expect nothing less from Joshua Kane.

Words: Ian Michael Turner